Urban Jürgensen isn’t known for its luxury sports watches. Indeed, the Swiss watch brand has never wandered into the somewhat flooded realm of luxury sports watches, a market dominated by the likes of Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Vacheron Overseas and coveted Patek Phillipe Nautilus – certainly some of Geneva’s biggest boys. The ‘Jürgensen One’ is challenging this status quo, and it’s doing it in a very intriguing and very Jürgensen way.
Urban Jürgensen, established in 1773, earned their horological stripes through their excellence in dress watches. This theme has undoubtedly been maintained with its newest creation. Even though the company’s mechanical past certainly serves as an influence for their new production territory, it certainly doesn’t define it. The Jürgensen One is a superbly rounded, anti-straight edge steel timepiece that embodies a unique blend of tradition and modernity.
From its circular dial, soft case angles, and oval linking, the Jürgensen one flows neatly into itself, creating a beautiful spherical symmetrical. The 41mm case is a real sweet-spot for the company – not too imposing yet not too delicate. This is a challenge for many luxury sports brands, who walk the line between beauty and grit. The case is satin-brushed, with mirror-polished surfaces, which is a standard beautiful finish one would expect to come with an Urban Jürgensen piece.
This watch is as durable as it is pretty. The materials included are an incredibly durable, medical-grade steel, which seeks to reduce corrosion while the mechanics allow for up to 120-meters of water resistance. The baton-style markers carry bravado but balance their presence well on the undercrowded dial. The inner circle of this dial is decorated in a perfectly balanced and cunning wave pattern, adding to the spherical aesthetic of the entire piece. The batons are individually hand-crafted resulting in the varied beauty of each of the three hands.
The case, dial, and face of the Jürgensen One is compelling enough in itself, but the bracelet truly completes an already superb piece. The watch stands out amongst its competition with its distinctive oval-shaped central links. This seemingly small addition adds another level of sophistication and strength to the Jürgensen One and every single link is tapered accordingly to the width of the bracelet as it meets itself in the middle. The addition of the opal links results in unprecedented durability and flexibility – a rarity among steel bracelets.
The Jürgensen One utilises the company’s own Urban Jürgensen P5 movement, which is an automatic interpretation of the watchmaker’s P4. The movement comes in two variations – time-and-date or GMT (two pretty safe movement options for a company just breaking into the luxury sports watch industry). The result of these mechanics is a 72-hour power reserve via two separate barrels. These smaller details can be seen via the clear case back, creating an exhibition of mechanical excellence.
The time and date variant Ref.5241 arrives in three dial colours: white, charcoal and Jürgensen blue, with an RRP of 24,500CHF while the GMT model Ref. 5541 gets a blue dial only and an RRP of 33,500CHF. Both models will face some very stiff competition at these prices but perhaps that’s the price you pay for exclusivity.
Images & Source: Monochrome Watches