I certainly didn’t plan my trip to New York around Fashion Week, in fact, the type of fashion, and generally the brands which exhibit on the runways (aside from a select few) don’t particularly interest me. Fashion and style are completely different, which is why TVG has a Style category, not a Fashion one.
While Fashion Week is most known for famous designers and hoards of dickheads running around the streets trying to get photographed, it also brings together some of the most important figures in the industry. Away from the runway countless brands gather in the city to present their upcoming collections to prospective buyers and press. This year we attended a fantastic presentation at the historic New York Armoury for perhaps the most (for lack of a more suitable word) versatile menswear company (outside Ralph Lauren) in the game – EIDOS Napoli.
The EIDOS Napoli Fall 2015 collection is a seamless blend of contemporary Neapolitan tailoring and progressive everyday menswear with both sport and street influences. It shouldn’t come as a surprise then to find out EIDOS is owned by ISAIA, which I can only assume sits in the back of Antonio’s mind when he’s designing. Despite this, EIDOS is distinctively its own, unique and innovative, but built on the same core values and construction techniques of the high end menswear company that owns it.
Antonio’s vision has resulted in a more subtle, practical and youthful approach to Italian tailoring. Fully canvassed jackets and overcoats mix with textured suiting, vests, knits, denim and winter trousers in deep reds and blues. Essentially it’s an all encompassing collection that makes me want to donate my entire wardrobe to charity and start from scratch – it really is that good.
What pleased me the most about viewing the collection was how I saw it influencing the direction of current menswear. Styled with sneakers and boots designed in collaboration with Christian Kimber (more on that soon!) it was instantly apparent just how wearable the collection really was. EIDOS Napoli presented effortlessly cool clothes for everyday life, interesting and layer able clothes to help you develop your own unique style. The MTM suiting ‘trend’ that has engulfed Tumblr and Instagram is quickly becoming obsolete and it’s collections like the EIDOS Napoli Fall 2015 that are helping to kick that trend.